Coming back to Rome feels like meeting up with a old friend you haven’t seen in a long time.  On our first trip here nearly 20 years ago we found a hotel, The Smeraldo, that fit our budget, was centrally located and just around the corner from the Campo Di Fiori.  Each trip since this hotel has been our headquarters which is probably part of the reason we feel so at home in Rome.  And yet each time we’re here, we end up finding a never-before-seen street in the maze within a couple hundred yards of The Smeraldo.  

We’ve toured all the major sites — Pantheon, Forum,  Colosseum —   years ago.  Now we just soak up the spirit of the city and wander through the morning markets.

And we eat and drink.  It’s hard to find a bad meal in Rome, although we do have a few rules.  If the restaurant has a guy out front luring tourists in, walk on by.  If there’s a sign out front offering a tourist menu, keep looking.  Go beyond the main square a few yards down smaller streets and you’ll find better food at better prices, but usually without the great people watching & romance the main squares provide. If there is one or more drop dead gorgeous women dining, plan on the male wait staff ignoring you.  And be sure to order what maybe the best part of any meal in Italy — espresso!  However, order your espresso with milk only in the morning!

And like the best kind of old friend, Rome still surprises & delights us.  This trip, as recent converts to the ease and economy of Smart cars, we were amazed at the proliferation of this little gem every where.  We started counting how many we would see parked in one block — 3, 4 or more not uncommon.  And given the parking and narrow streets in Rome, home of the well-dressed man on Vespa, not a surprise.

At one point we had thought traveling in Europe in September would be perfect — good weather, best of the summer harvest and fewer people.  Guess we’ll have to take two out of three.  Yes, the temperatures in Southern Europe are nearly ideal for touring.  And the food available in the markets is amazing.  But the crowds are as large as any we ever saw traveling in July and August.  Partly it’s the global economy with more folks from more countries able to afford travel.  Partly it’s aging baby boomers who are retiring and traveling in droves.  And I suspect it is also Millenials and Generation Xers who place a higher priority on travel.  Whatever the cause, Rome is packed in September which would mean for first timers and site seekers, book as many museum and historical site tours you can ahead of time to avoid the long lines.  For those returning again and again, plan on soaking up the ambiance of Rome and exploring new, less well known neighborhoods.  Bottom line:  travel in September is better than July and August if you change your expectations.  

Somewhere along the line we decided to add push pins on a work map for every city we’ve stayed in. At first we color coded the trips by year, both domestic travel and overseas.  We ran out of different colored push pins.  Then we started adding white or black dots to the top of colored pins we had.  Ran out of those, too.  Too many different cities and too few colors of push pins.  So now it’s just which ever color we grab first.

It’s fun to see where we’ve been and how many parts of the world remain unexplored.  Obviously, we need to spend some serious time in the Southern Hemisphere!

A while ago an acquaintance asked me who was the trip planner in our family, me or Peter.  The question had never occurred to me, but when I thought about it, I realized Peter does the heavy lifting for our big trips.   It was my idea to go to Sicily on our next trip, although Peter thought I made the suggestion just to distract him from an issue that had him in a stew.  Not true, but it did work.

But once the destination is chosen, he pours over the books — we always figure buying a couple of books in the cheapest part of the trip — searches the internet and reads the magazines articles.    I add requests, suggestions and have veto power.  “Let’s do a food tour” or  “I want to be there on market day”  and “Let’s stay at least two nights in each place.”  Rarely do we disagree, at least at this stage of the trip, but we do discuss the options endlessly.

There was a time when we traveled spontaneously, booking rooms only after we had arrived in an interesting spot.  But that was when we could pick up a charming  room with breakfast for $15 just outside of Budapest.  No longer.

Airbnb’s and Homeaway’s have become our default lodging.  We like being in a real neighborhood and attempting, however feebly, to blend in with the locals.  “Our” coffee place and “our” cheese store.  Having a kitchen means breakfast isn’t a restaurant meal and when we get laundry facilities that’s a real bonus over washing out the undies in the bathroom sink.  And we recognize these rental units have become controversial, and acknowledge there are issues to be addressed.  But for now they work for us.

 

As we packed for our next departure just a week away, we decided to count up all the trips we have taken outside of North America.  29, or maybe 31, depending upon how we count trips — he went to the Republic of Georgia and I went to Armenia; does that count as one or two trips?  I went to Japan in October and he went in November, but on the same teacher program; one or two?  Bottom line: our trips together add up to about 30 trips in 37 years.  And with this blog, we intend to reflect on our next trips, because we are not done traveling yet!

As teachers for a couple decades, we had summers free for travel, albeit cheap travel mostly.  Plus we used all the opportunities we could find to travel on some one else’s dime –teacher study programs abroad, taking students, and various university programs — all in the name of finding adventure, in the big world outside the US.

Now retired after spending the last eight or so years of our careers in jobs that didn’t allow us to travel much.  A week here or there, usually with sun, sand and a couple good books. But now we have the time and luckily the health and resources to feed our desire for more.  Bags packed!