Rotate the Crops!

Usually in the fall we travel. Last year we spent two months in Valencia, Spain, and had to figure out how to vote remotely. The year before that we made it home just under the wire to drop our ballots in a drop box. But this year we had to be in the US. We decided in these times we needed to more than vote. And Washington State is so blue—no real competitive races—we knew we had to go somewhere else.

Our original plan was to go south to one of the newly created swing districts in California for a week in early October and to be back home for a weekend or two of local canvassing. Life interfered and we weren’t able to do either. But luckily a politically connected friend texted and asked us if we wanted to go to Iowa for the final weekend of GOTV (Get Out The Vote). YES!

Packed our bags and off we went, thinking doorbelling and campaigns in Iowa couldn’t be all that different from what we’ve done for years in Washington. Wrong. Well, at least campaigns work quite differently in Iowa even though the tasks are basically the same.

First, the candidates are young! Definitely passing of the generational torch going on here in Iowa. Few gray hairs to be seen. Even fewer suits or sport coats. Jeans, boots, quilted vests and baseball caps for the men; sweaters and slacks (sometimes blazers for the women). All this talk after the election about a new generation winning? Yep, that’s what we saw.

From upper right, Rob Sand running for Governor, Sarah Trone Garriott running for Congress, Sand’s campaign sign at a rally, and Ryan Peterman, candidate for Secretary of State

The crowds at events are smaller — not because there is less interest or fewer people. Iowa has been the first presidential caucus for years and every viable Presidential candidate spends lots of time here. In the process Iowans appear to have gotten used to being up close and personal. So we got selfies with the eventual winners, Josh Turek and Sarah Trone Garriott as well as nice chats with them. Nothing formal here.

The NEA crew in at the labor rally with state Representative Heather Matson who ran for the state Senate and won with, Josh Turek and Sarah Trone Garriott the winning Democrat from CD 3

With a little bit more effort we could have done the same with Tom Harkin and Rob Sand. We met the candidate for Secretary of State and a Secretary of Agriculture, both of whom lost narrowly in this traditionally red state. And several legislative candidates who showed up for morning canvassing efforts.

Former Senator Tom Harkin at IBEW headquarters labor rally

The slogans and speeches reflected the largely agricultural base of Iowa’s economy. Turek and others stressed their farm roots and being “life long Iowans.” No carpetbaggers here. The line “It’s time to Rotate the Crops” ended up in speeches, on campaign flyers and stickers. The Lieutenant Governor candidate started his speech with the list of crops and livestock on his family farm — hay, soybeans, corn, cattle and hogs. The Democratic candidate for Governor, both times we heard him speak, lamented that he had missed the start of “urban deer hunting” because of campaigning! And promised to be out in a tree blind on November 4. Who knew urban deer hunting was even a thing! Folksy, relaxed.

Mind you, Sand graduated from Brown University, interned for Senator Tom Harkins, was accepted at Harvard Law School, but chose to get his degree at an Iowa university. At one point he modeled Prada men’s wear in Milan and Paris. Not exactly the expected bio for a guy in jeans, boots and a baseball cap whose drawl stopped just short of being southern.

Rob Sand speaking to his final rally at East High School’s cafeteria in Des Moines

We also carried literature for Sarah Trone Garriott, a Lutheran minister, who started her stump speech with a reminder of her pastoral work and highlighted her work among the sick and poor. Nothing slick, or corporate about her. Far from it. She won. And she won big in district that was rated a toss up in the most recent polls.

These Democrats running in Iowa were bucking history. The GOP has had control of both houses of the Legislature and executive branch for over 10 years. It’s been nearly two decades since a Democratic governor or senator were elected. In fact, Sand is the lone Democrat holding a statewide office until the 2026 election. As auditor, when he was first elected, he backed some rules and regulation to curb fraud and graft in the capital, and the GOP majorities responded by gutting the powers of the auditor.

The candidates all drew upon common threads in their speeches —the incredibly high cancer rates in Iowa, water supplies contaminated by fertilizers and industrialized hog farms, corruption in the statehouse and the nation’s capital. Meanwhile GOP controlled legislature was loosening restrictions on water quality to protect their corporate friends. Over and over again we heard about diesel prices, inadequate funding for education (a subject that often generated the biggest applause and loudest response from the crowd), lack of access to medical care. Their ire also extended to those in DC just as much. The list of concerns went on — war in Iran, prices for groceries are just too high, corruption, affordable housing.

In a different tone from what we hear at home, all the candidates pledged to work across the aisle, seeking common sense solutions and appealed to Republicans to vote for them. No red meat for the blue party faithful — just acknowledging shared problems and a commitment to doing better than their opponents who in several cases had a track record, and not necessarily a good one. “Not leaning left or right,” Sand said, “just moving forward.”. Makes sense given Iowa’s history. Before Tuesday’s election it Iowa was 10+ Republican state. The congressional district where we spent most of our time going door to door was bright red. And yet, the Democratic candidates, Turek, Garriott and Sand carried those districts by 4, 7 and 9 points respectively.

Obviously our candidates benefitted from the national winds and well run campaigns. But they also got some help from some deeply flawed Republican candidates. Rob Sand’s opponent, the GOP candidate for Governor, apparently lives in Kansas, or at least had his 2024 ballot mailed to his address in Kansas. A charge he denies, while saying he’ll be in Iowa as much as he needs to be if elected, apparently intending to commute into the state every other week we were told. He worked for the ultra right Koch family and was married to a family member. His pick for Lieutenant Governor (the gubernatorial candidate picks his running mate and they run as a slate) is under investigation for fraud, may be indicted soon and is being sued by his own parents for failure to pay his debt to them. He hasn’t been seen on the campaign trail lately — no surprise.

Josh Turek, US Senate candidate, actually faced a competent GOP challenger. But her cause wasn’t helped when Trump said in a rally in Iowa that he was supporting her because she’d lost a lot of weight and now was looking good.

Then there were the other things that seemed different. We were walking door-to-door Halloween weekend, so we expected some front porch pumpkins and cobwebs, but the degree of decoration was surprising.

In our neighborhood in Seattle wreaths generally only appear on front doors at Christmas — around Des Moines? Lots and lots of yards and front doors were decorated and sometimes yard signs were incorporated fall decor.

Finally, kudos to the united effort of the Iowa State Teachers Association, the labor community and the Democratic Party for their coordinated campaign Iowa Forward 2026. Wow! A well oiled machine that signed us up, reminded us of our commitment and sent thanks along with opportunities for doing more! We got text messages, emails and phone calls from them — all upbeat and brief. It exceeded anything we’ve seen before. As one of the ISTEA organizers said, “we’re just scrappy.” Scrappy and effective we would say! And impressive! Victories for Iowa Forward 2026 up and down the ballot.

The Democratic candidate for Secretary of Agriculture at Democratic headquarters in suburban Des Moines.

Travel Then and Now 2

So we’ve been traveling for forty plus years, started out in our 30’s and we’re now in our 70’s. Boy, have things changed!

We remember the old days. Not always fondly. You went to travel agent or maybe an airline office to make your travel arrangements — all the arrangements were made in person at the office, by phone or through a travel agent. The tickets were mailed to you or your travel agent. We had specific folders designed to hold the multiple copies of your travel tickets and documents. Passport requirements were pretty much the same then—except Mexico and Canada then allowed drivers licenses for entrance. Passports were hand stamped and acquiring multiple stamps from as many countries as possible was a badge of honor.

Of course, 9/11 and new technology changed all of that. Security has become incredibly important, understandably so. But security checkpoints and the lines associated with them are an unavoidable nuisance. Initially, the process was a bit intimidating (will never forget our first airplane trip after the new security system was implemented and the check-in lines wrapped around the center of Sea-Tac over Presidents Weekend). At times it felt as though every airport had a different set of rules—what to take off, what you’re allowed to keep on. iPads in or out of carry-ons? Belts on or off? Shoes, yes or no? Jackets on or off? Now, it’s pretty much ho-hum, business as usual, although every once in while there’s a kink in the process.

Yes, the security lines can be long. For while TSA Pre-check simplified things for those who went through the vetting process. Now not so much. More recently passport and customs control have begun using facial recognition and electronic readers which means much faster processing. No longer do you have the passport agents looking back and forth at you and passport picture for what seemed like hours. But, sad to say, no more stamps.

Although the new EU Entry/Exit System (EES) made headlines that scared us before our recent trip with reports of huge back-ups at major European hubs, but we found it worked pretty smoothly in early May. We remember horrific waits at passport control in the old days. Often a nightmare after a long international flight. And paper ticketing has now been replaced by cell phones and tickets downloaded well in advance—again, speeding up the process as long as you have battery life.

Not that technology always works perfectly. On our way back from Paris this month, all of the Terminal 4 ticketing and baggage computers at Orly Airport shut down. The gate agents had to resort using small hand held computers to verify reservations and then hand write boarding passes and baggage tags. Down the line, security personnel struggled with the absence of bar codes and electronic tickets. Total chaos as you can imagine. In Scotland, recently one ScotRail official accepted a photo of our downloaded ticket, while another agent on the same train when we returned demanded the original download. He warned us he’d let it go this time, but next time he said in a loud Scottish brogue “no, no, no!” Such is how it goes in travel.

It’s not just the getting there that has changed. When we arrived in a city or town 30 years ago we headed directly to the TI, or tourist information office that most towns or cities had at the rail station or town center. We’d pour through folders or notebooks with pictures of rooms, apartments, hotels or homes. We’d select something and the TI agent would call to check availability, and send us off with directions. This worked reasonably well unless we got into to town late—then it was often a disaster. Call after call until we found anything that would take us. Often the bottom of the barrel accommodations. We tried to set a rule—always arrive in your next destination before 2 pm. Rules for that era.

Now with the Internet, we book everything in advance. Airline tickets, car rentals, tours, tickets to various sights, restaurant reservations, and play and events tickets. If you don’t — more than likely everything is already booked. Our recent five week adventure in the England, Scotland, London, Paris, and, yes, Newark, we had every night accounted for in February, months before we left. We started booking in September for a trip in May. A bit unsettling to know where you’ll be sleeping 8 months to the day from now and whether it’s a queen or king size bed. But like our 2 pm rule 30 years ago, we know that the best short-term rentals, B&B’s, and hotels book up months in advance, particularly in popular destinations or if you’re too far off the beaten path. Book early or you get the bottom of the barrel. What we lost in spontaneity we did gain in security.

The internet and cell phones also now mean that you are always contact with friends, relatives and the news back home. Is that a positive? Hard to say. We used to have to set up places to pick up messages or letters—often the American Embassy. We would leave hotel addresses and phone numbers with family members of those few places we could book in advance. Postcards! Remember sending postcards home? Buying foreign stamps and the blue thin stationery for longer letters home? Luckily for us, Mom saved many of those which are fun to read 30 and 40 years later.

First thing we often did in a new town was search for any newstand that carried the Herald Tribune. If we were lucky enough get a paper we would find a cafe and devour every single word—often fighting over who got the front page first. Now it’s like you’ve never left home. New York Times? Online. Seattle Times? Online. Local TV news. Online. Sports scores? Online. We can even watch a simulation of a baseball game online with just a few second delay. Need to check on a sick relative? Phone call or text or use What’s App. Mostly it’s a positive until you get annoying string of text messages at 3 am from people who’ve forgotten about the time zone difference.

And how about money? You used to have change currency for every country you visited—almost always losing in the exchange. Buying before you left home a few dollars worth of whatever the local currency at your destination might be. And often coming home with lots of “souvenirs.” Think we still have a very heavy box of various old foreign coins and paper bills. If you didn’t plan in advance to get your currency you were out of luck—nothing to eat until the banks opened the next day. We remember searching in rural Portugal village for a restaurant that would take credit cards when we arrived without cash on a Sunday. Few merchants even took credit cards. And the time in Turkey when we first used an ATM to get Turkish currency. We were almost Turkish millionaires for a hundred US dollars!

Credit cards and contactless payment such as Apple Pay changed all of that. A giant step forward. That fact that most of Europe has gone to the euro also helps enormously. We just spent three nights in Paris and never needed a euro. All contactless payment. Last November, we were Copenhagen and never saw a a Danish kroner (the Danes don’t use the euro). Don’t have a clue as to what they might look like. Yes, a real plus.

The travel season has also changed dramatically. Because we were teachers we always traveled in the summer—supposedly the height of the tourist season. Yes, there were crowds in the top tourist sights in the big cities like Paris, London and Rome. But we were able to tour the Coliseum, Vatican, Notre Dame, Houses of Parliament, and Westminster Abbey in summer with relatively small crowds and were able to buy the same day entrance tickets at the ticket office. Retired, we now travel the alleged “shoulder season”—September/October/April/May. Supposedly fewer crowds, better prices, more availability. Turns out, last year, the two most touristed months in Rome were April and October. Say “au revoir” to the shoulder season. The crowds this May in London and Paris were horrendous. On our tour of Versailles we thought we’d be crushed alive trying to get a look at Louis the XIV’s bed — we feared being the last victims of the Sun King. We never saw the Rosetta Stone in the British Museum—the crowds around were too dense with people snapping photos and, yes, selfies.

A year ago in October, we tried to book tickets to Gaudi’s Sagrada Família in Barcelona a week in advance. Sorry, nothing available during our four day stay. We walked by the building to at least admire the outside. Mobbed! The same was true of all the Gaudi sights. You couldn’t get close.

Maybe the new shoulder season is November/March. Or December/February.

Our solution has been to avoid the A list sights and cities, and look for more off the beaten track kind of places. That’s worked very well, but we have the luxury of 40 years of travel. We’ve already seen most of the A list sights and feel little need to see them again.

Satellite navigation—another modern miracle. We still do love a good paper map, but renting a car and driving on tiny rural roads in Scotland or through a city like Inverness in May this year with turn by turn navigation in the car or on a phone is a truly miraculous. We never got lost—not once. Not even close. And we were driving on the left side of the road. On our four day hike along the Fife coastal path, we used the app provided by Mac Adventures as our guide. Every time we had the slightest doubt, we consulted the app. Not a missed turn or dead end. Not a wasted step. In Valencia, the city provided a public transportation app for your cell phone. You plugged in the destination and it provided routes, complete with bus, tram, and subway numbers, times, and stops. Gone were days trying to figure things out by guesswork and paper maps. The first time we drove in Scotland 10 years ago we thought we were pretty modern when we took pictures of the paper road map on our iPad with its ability to enlarge the map for our older eyes. So old school now! Or the panic that ensued in Prague when our carefully plotted route was thwarted by road construction.

And back in the old days how many times did find ourselves at the wrong end of the city or driving into places where we had no business being. We once drove up a walking path in the middle of a cemetery during a funeral ceremony in Krakow. The mourners were not happy. Or down a street in Gubio Italy until it became too narrow for our small car to fit through — we had to back up several blocks. Another time we wound up driving down the pedestrian-only center of Sienna on to the Campo to the astonishment of the locals. How we got by the local police barricades to this day we don’t know. Fewer funny stories now, but pretty stressful at the time.

Years of traveling has taught us to roll with punches, adapt, learn new skills.

Yes, how things have changed—some for the better, some for the worse. Yet in some ways, the changes are pretty superficial. Now instead of cursing a detour that messes up our plans, we’re cursing poor cell reception and clunky websites. Instead of a travel agent guiding our choices, we’re relying on blogs, podcasts and AI recommendations. But we’re still loving every minute of our travel experiences.

Uncomfortable Travel Truths

Bristol brought it home to us.

Much of the wealth of this English city was as a result of the slave trade. Many of Bristol’s 17th, 18th and early 19th century merchants made their fortunes by shipping English goods to Africa, then filling those same ships with slaves for the plantations of the West Indies and America, and then returning to England with sugar and other products from the Americas. Along the way some of them bought plantations in the Americas.

The city was enormously prosperous because of the direct and indirect connections to slavery. The wealthy merchants became benefactors—model citizens—using their money for civic projects and charitable good works. They were icons, heroes.

None more so than Edward Colston. His money built poor houses, and for the poorest residents — education programs, hospitals, and various charities. He helped refurbish and maintain the city’s great cathedral. The Colston stained glass window still is one of the masterpieces of the church. The city dedicated a statue to him that sat on a plinth in a prominent square in the city center. The bronze plaque under statue reads:

“Erected as a memorial to one of the most virtuous and wise sons of their city.”

His fortune was as result of trafficking 84,000 men, women, and children into slavery.

The city had to come to grips with this uncomfortable truth six years ago when the Black Lives Matter movement crossed the Atlantic and hit the UK. On June 7, 2020 a group of protestors toppled his statue and threw it into the harbor. It provoked a nationwide conversation about the legacy of slavery and slavery fortunes.

The cathedral and city have done an admirable job at trying to present the dark side of Bristol’s history. The cathedral has erected as series panels that tell the unvarnished story. One panel says, for example,

”For hundreds of years, many of the people gathered in this cathedral enslaved, bought and sold their sisters and brothers of color. They exploited, raped and murdered them, and the exploiters did not see their actions as being incompatible with the Christian faith.”

The cathedral also has erected a small monument to one enslaved man, John Issac, at the request of his descendants. But that did not happen without the pressure of the descendants of those enslaved and was controversial. And it’s located in a dark corner of the cathedral.

The church is raising money to install a modern stained glass window telling the story of enslaved peoples facing the Colston window. All this is shared by the church members who serve as guides and welcomers.

The city also has stepped up. The fantastic MShed museum, a city focused version of the Smithsonian, has a whole section devoted to protest and the Black Lives Matter movement.

It’s center piece? The Colston statue covered with red paint and a video of its toppling playing above the horizontal bronze figure of Edward Colston.

As travelers and tourists we know these uncomfortable truths are not unique to Bristol. Many of the places we’ve been on our travels have similar unsavory pasts. The monumental gold and silver pieces in the Seville Cathedral created from the exploitation of native peoples in the new world.

The glorious plantations of the US South built on the wealth of a slave economy, the amazing the Duke of Sutherland’s Dunrobin Castle in Northern Scotland who played a huge role in the Clearances where land owners forced the small tenant farmers off the land and into extreme poverty to create more wealth for themselves.

Dunrobin Castle still owned by the Sutherland’s family foundation

We just visited the Palace at Versailles on our way back from our Scotland trip (yes, a strange routing but we got a much better airfare through Paris rather than London). Our reaction—no wonder there was a revolution! The GOAT of ostentatious wealth. And while strolling the bucolic Mendip Hills in Somerset, UK, our local friend pointed out the remains of Victorian era lead mines where small children were used to climb through the horizontal flues to scape the lead off the walls. Most died before reaching puberty.

Remnants of flues where children from poorhouses & orphanages worked

But the mines made their owners fabulously wealthy and account for some very lovely country estates in the area.

For us, traveling is learning — broadening our understanding of other cultures and peoples. And if that uncovers uncomfortable truths, it is important to share that. We admire the way the city of Bristol took that challenge head on. It made our visit there much more than a quick photo op of beautiful churches, historic buildings, and Banksy’s murals. Thank you Bristol!

The Full Scottish

No, not the breakfast, which is more enough to sustain a human for a week, but the Highlands. The real heart of the Scotland. The full Scottish.

We had been in the Lowlands—Stirling, Glasgow, Edinburgh and hiked the Fife coast. Lovely enough in an English sort of way—rolling hills, farmland, green fields. In parts, urban, suburban, and industrial. Four lane motorways, large power plants, train stations with commuter lines, ports with gantry cranes. Yes, it is Scotland, we know. And we thoroughly enjoyed it.

But we had also come for the Highlands. Our trip ten years ago around Skye, Oban and Glencoe had whetted our appetite for the wildness and scenery of the northwest of Scotland.

We started in Inverness. While the town isn’t known for its charm, the River Ness does create some views.

The city is really a great base for a visit to the Culloden Battlefield, the last stand of Scottish resistance to English domination. Definitely a must-do. Over a thousand clansmen killed in an hour with minimal losses by the government forces. The story of Bonnie Prince Charles who was defeated at Culloden is often romanticized but like most wars, the reality is something far different.

From there we chartered a course around Wester Ross, sticking close to the coastline, starting with Ullapool.

Ullapool. We struggled with the pronunciation of the town. It looked simple enough and relatively straightforward compared to many Scottish names. It was the first syllable that was hard. — uu-lapool? O-lapool? All-lapool? We were corrected several times by locals. Never sure we got it right.

A relatively new town, Ullapool was created in 1788 by the British to capitalize on the local herrings runs. And we arrived in time for the biennial lugger festival, celebrating the traditional sailing boats (https://luggerfest.wordpress.com/) used in the area. The celebration centered around the harbor. Locals gathered to listen to music, get a bit to eat, and sign up for rides in the antique and reproduction boats proudly displayed in the marina. A bit of music here and there and several of food trucks selling seafood. We particularly enjoyed the fresh oysters a local oysterman was selling for £1.50 each. Best we have had in ages at price we could afford. A world apart from London’s £8 an oyster. Why didn’t we eat more?

Lots of families, baby strollers and friends meeting up. Fun, festive and very small townish. Other than us, hardly a tourist in sight. Of course, the ferry terminal dominates the town with its twice a day sailings to the islands of Lewis and Harris. Plenty of fish and chip joints, nicknamed “chippies” appropriately. And a very small protest in support of Palestinians. Even the cloudy skies and bit of rain didn’t seem to tap down the fun.

We booked the Clachan Garden B&B for our two days in the Ullapool area. (https://www.clachangardenbandb.co.uk/) It turned out to be the best decision we could have made. The place was charming—the setting amazing. It was in a valley of farmland at the end of Loch Broom—basically a long fjord— stretching out to the Atlantic Ocean miles west. Sheep and tiny lambs were frolicking in the fields surrounding the B&B. Too cute. Working dogs and farm equipment on both sides of the narrow one lane road. Idyllic, yes. But what made the B&B were the hosts, Stephen and Margaret Monroe. They had moved out here many years ago from Newcastle for a simpler life. He was a musician, a classical guitar teacher, a lover of books and she had worked for the local government. They bought a post office to run in Ullapool, then opened a cafe, and finally settled on a B&B. They were both so busy it was hard to see it as a simpler life.

We could have snuggled down in their library forever and Steven encouraged us to thumb through his vast collection. In fact, books lined almost every wall of the cottage. Our two bedrooms rooms felt curated and cozy — named Miss Rose and Mrs. Peacock. And the sunny breakfast room was where we seemed to settle before and after each day of touring. Then there were the six homemade jams for the breakfast toast (got the recipe for the caramelized pear jam from Margaret). And for us the coup d’grace was the La Marzocco espresso machine—not just any old espresso machine but the Rolls-Royce of machines! Stephen had purchased it in — of all places our home town of Seattle! He handled it like a pro—best cafe we had on trip. Yep, Steven and Margaret spoiled us.

On their advice we drove the road to Lochinver on a gray, cloudy Sunday — an appropriate backdrop for the seascapes and scenery. It is reputed to be one of the most beautiful drives in Scotland. We won’t argue with that! A narrow lane with plenty of pull-outs for cars to step aside for oncoming traffic. A few working vans, and locals who knew the road’s dips and curves well enough to zip along. We crawled along, oohing and ahhing at the sights. Unfortunately, the highly recommended pie shop in Lochinver was closed on Sunday but we had lunch with the locals and their dogs in a six table sandwich shop.

It was hard to leave Clachan Garden B&B, but we had a schedule to maintain! We drove through Wester Ross, past both salt and fresh water lochs, waterfalls, through miles of wild rhododendron woodlands, past fields of sheep, a few ruins, but very few Highland cows, between 3000 foot mountains and across glens of rape seed and blue bells. Most of the narrow two-lane roads posted for 60 miles per hour while we preferred 50 or even 40.

We did stop at the amazing Inverewe Gardens—a Michelin 3 star site. And it was. A beautifully maintained botanical garden begun over a 150 years ago.

We ended up just outside of Fort William in the community of Onich. Please, if you are ever there, don’t judge Fort William by the miserable traffic. Park your car and walk down High Street — maybe a quarter mile of lovely old gray stone buildings, a beautiful small park in front of the church and local shops. Delightful!

We planned the trip not only to see the scenery, it also to walk through it. We’re not serious backpackers, but we love a good day hike and our quick visit to the area ten years ago had whetted our appetite. Not enough time back then to take a hike, but just enough for a quick stop to snap a selfie. We vowed to come back. And here we were.

Steall Falls is one of the famous hikes, and our host in our vacation rental highly recommended it. As we expected over a school holiday, it was packed. A steep, rocky climb eventually opened to a meadow and the falls.

Next we drove to the Glencoe National Park and stopped at the visitor center for a recommendation for a 2-3 hour hike that would not be overwhelmed with people, strollers and dogs. Armed with that advice we headed out, past the trail head that led to the most famous path to the Three Sisters or the loch where dozens of cars and tour buses were parked. When we got to our destination we realized it was exactly the spot where we had stopped ten years before. And this time, almost alone, we walked the trail for an hour or two.

We wrapped up our Wester Ross tour with a night in the Dornach Castle (more on Dornach in our next blog) complete with another whiskey tasting and then returned to Inverness to drop off our rental car. We hopped the Caledonian Sleeper night train back to London. An adventure in itself in dealing tiny, tiny spaces. Goodbye to driving on narrow lanes and hello London.

Yes, we’d done the full Scottish.

Off the Beaten Coastal Path

The Fife coastal path in Scotland! Our bit: Kirkcaldy to Crail. 37 miles. Picturesque most of the time, sometimes industrial. Rural and urban, but mostly rural. And the Firth of Forth and the North Sea on our right. Uncrowded. A few other hikers but mostly local dog walkers and joggers. We went through fields with Highland cows and sheep, green rye fields, bright yellow rape fields, quaint coastal fishing villages with their lobster pots stacked everywhere.

Then there were the golf courses where we literally walked through the fairways, keeping an eye on the golfers teeing off.

We trekked through suburban communities, past giant wind turbines, grain elevators, WWII bunkers, castles, caves and huge mobile vacation home parks.

The path was flat, marshy, hilly, rocky, beachy, with cliffs and drop offs, and several stretches along roads—both country and major A roads. Up stone stairs, down steep paths, over stone fences, through animal gates. Past playgrounds and cemeteries.

In many places coastal erosion caused the path to be diverted away from the coast. Lots of “Path closed, danger!” signs. It’s an ongoing serious problem that will continue to alter the path.

The most infamous part of our hike was the Elie Chain Walk. It a series of nine chains bolted into coastal cliffs with narrow rocky ledges to walk on just above the crashing waves of the North Sea—a 1/2 mile of terror. Fortunately for us, the coastal authority lists the safe times to walk it based on the tides. We were a “red no-go” because of high tides when we reached the chain walk. The safe alternative path took us high up to the cliff above the chain walk. Scary enough in its own way. Looking down, we breathed a sigh of relief. The chain walk would have been terrifying.

Walking the safer path instead of the chain walk thru the rocks

We had incredible luck with the weather. Two days of partly sunny and on the last day when the weather reports said rain and wind all day, doom and gloom, we got one brief shower. A strong wind off the North Sea was chilly, but we did get some sun and a real sense of what living on the North Sea coast might be like. And this was May. The locals kept saying “It’s Scotland after all.”

It wasn’t really a strenuous hike like a Cascade mountain trail—the most elevation gain in any one day was about 300 ft. But we were leg weary, exhausted by the end of each day! 14 miles the first day and nearly as much the last day! 12 mile average per day. Some small aches and pains. Nothing that two Ibuprofen couldn’t relieve. While there were small towns and villages along the way, there were significant stretches with nothing but path, coast and us.

Through all of the twists, turns, and detours, the path was clearly — crystal clearly marked — with Fife Coastal Paths medallions and arrows pointing the right direction.

With that and the app provided for our cell phones we never once got lost. Not even close! Of course, every fork in the path triggered a conference with our hiking partners.

It was a very pleasant contrast with our Minister Way hike in York several years ago where we got lost every day and rarely saw another human.

We had arranged the hike through a company, MACAdventures which provided luggage transfers and accommodations along the way — three charming hotels and one B&B. The Ship Inn https://shipinn.scot/ in Elie was the favorite. It’s an old inn on the waterfront with a restaurant and a lively bar filled with locals and dogs. Lots of dogs.

Breakfasts were always included which meant you could start the day on a full Scottish—toast, eggs, fried tomato, baked beans, hash browns, oat pancake, sausage, bacon, black pudding, and, yes, haggis — and skip lunch all together!

The evening meal was usually in the hotel pub or dining room which also provided the evening’s entertainment — chatting with a fellow hiker or to the locals who often seemed surprised we had chosen their corner of Scotland for our hike, and us loving the sound of the Scottish brogue with its “ayes, nayes, youses”.

And a wee dram of whisky to top off the evening. “Slainte mhash!”

Would we do it again? Aye, in a heart beat.

Back to the Future

Well, this spring we are shaking it up a bit. For the last few years we have followed our preferred pattern for traveling. Find a home base and from there explore. Valencia, Spain last year. Ontiente, Spain the year before. The Dordogne or Occitaine, France and years ago Umbria, Italy. All were explored from a place we called home for two or three weeks, or in the case of Valencia, two months.

Years ago we used to travel a bit like the bad movie, “If It’s Tuesday, It Must Be Belgium.” (Don’t know it? Don’t bother looking for it. As you might guess it’s about traveling through Europe with a different hotel room every night). Our version wasn’t quite that hectic or silly, and certainly more interesting, but we did cover a lot of ground in a relatively short period of time when that’s all the time we had. It suited our circumstances then just fine. Can we still manage that? Or have those travel muscles atrophied?

This year our primary travel focus is the Highlands of Scotland with a week in the Fife region, a few days near Edinburgh, a week in Somerset, and a couple nights in both London and Paris. Not quite a different hotel room every night, but definitely more movement than we’ve been used to. The closest we’ve been to near constant movement was four years ago in Spain, mainly in Andalusia, and then we relied upon a nearly full-service travel company to manage all the different hotels, train trips and tours. It was a breeze! Can we do it by ourselves this time?

Well, we aren’t totally on our own. We’ve shared the planning for the core 21 days with our travel companions and then tacked on 14 additional days on our own. Even so, the trip involves more than 10 different plane, train and car rentals reservations and 15 different hotels, B&B’s, and vacation rental stays. Lots of planning went into each step. Lots! Some pieces of the trip our friends planned. Some we did. Many we planned together. We talked, discussed and debated options, texted and emailed ideas and then reservations back and forth. Some parts of the trip are planned in great detail (dinner reservations on our walk along the Fife Coastal Walk where a hiking service carries our bags from inn to inn as we carry a light rucksack) and others left open (a couple nights in London with only a vacation rental booked).

Making all these arrangements wasn’t the only challenge. In addition to the four day hike along the Fife coastal path, we also want to do some hiking in Glencoe, around Ullapool and Wester Ross, and near Fort William. That meant packing bulky hiking gear and enough clothes for those stretches when we wouldn’t have access to washer/dryers. Weather in Scotland is unpredictable, especially in May. Sun, rain, wind or even snow at higher elevations? So we also have to pack rain gear and warm layers. Then there’s London and Paris where those hiking shoes will never be seen! And by the end of the trip the weather in London and Paris could be quite warm. Short sleeves? Shorts? Sandals? Not enough room. Didn’t take long for us to realize our usual carry-on roll-aboards wouldn’t hold it all.

We purchased every book we saw on Scotland over the last year and then had to pare down to just two (plus the one Mary smuggled in when Peter wasn’t looking). Camera? Bring the big, good camera or rely upon our iPhones? Big camera won. Binoculars? Just one pair. We’ll have to share. And so it went. One large suitcase, one roll-aboard and two backpacks later we were packed.

So how will it go? Will we survive packing and repacking our bags every second or third day? Will it get old fast trying to find a decent espresso in each new location or even worse, not finding any at all. Will we miss having our boulangerie, our patio, our market, our neighborhood or will the variety and parade of new vistas more than compensate?

“Our” patio, home, espresso, and market in previous slow trips to France and Spain

Stay tuned. The adventure has just begun. Oh, and our first hotel was the lovely Holiday Inn at the Newark Airport—a transit stop on our way to Paris.

Loreto Redux

For the last few years our escape from the dreary, wet January/February weather in Seattle was Costa Rica. Really a magical place which we’ve written about in many of our blogs. But we’ve seen most of Costa Rica on our five trips there, and we had only about two weeks—much less time than our usual month plus — because of a couple of trips planned in the months ahead.

So we decided to try something a little different—Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico. It’s on the Sea of Cortez about 4 hours north of La Paz and 8 hours from Cabo San Lucas. We’d been there five years ago to celebrate a friend’s 60th birthday and found the town to be charming. Tiny, still somewhat authentic. A world away from the tourist meccas of Cabo, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallerta. We had also spent time on the Sea of Cortez—the “aquarium of the world” according to Jacques Cousteau—on an UnCruise small ship. (We wrote about that trip https://chasingthegoodlife.blog/2018/08/14/hometown-whales/) So we knew there was a lot to see and do in the area especially if nightlife, gambling, and partying isn’t your thing.

And getting there was much easier than most warm weather escapes from Seattle—one stop in LA and then 120 minutes on to Loreto’s minuscule international airport. Left Seattle in the early morning and were in our condo at 3:00 pm. A real contrast to the eight hour, one-stop flight to San Jose, Costa Rica, which required a one night airport hotel stay both coming and going.

Loreto and its surroundings are in a mountainous desert bordering the Sea of Cortez—picture the Southwest US, but on an ocean, complete with saguro like cacti (but technically a cardón we were informed by a naturalist). We’re staying in a gringo development of half Canadian and half US visitors, spread around almost 900 homes, Nopoló, nine miles south of the town of Loreto. A bit contrived as planned communities tend to be with fake adobe homes and condos. Not our usual vibe. But the location! The Sea of Cortez on one side, with its islands off in the distance, and the mountains behind us to the west. Stunning views. Beautiful dessert landscaping (who knew how many blooming plants would survive the desert heat?) and immaculate grounds.

And quiet. Surprisingly so, given the density and number of homes. Most mornings and evenings it’s just the sound of birds and the wind in the palms.

And plenty of choices for excellent short-term rentals—another draw. Good restaurants, a couple coffee shops, walking paths, a long, half mile beautiful beach to stroll, kayaks to rent. But, of course, all of this comes at close to US prices. Still, for a short getaway it checks most the boxes.

And the town of Loreto, despite the draw of the raw beauty of the area, has remained largely Mexican but with enough infrastructure to support a modest tourism industry. Parts of the town, particularly on the outskirts, are a bit run down, dusty, ramshackle. Locals buying meat at the many small carnicerias, tortillas at one of the ancient tortilla factories, whole roasted chickens at the industrial smoking ovens of the Pollo Asado. Typical of most of non-tourist Mexico.

Loreto’s real claim to fame, however, is its modest mission and church, first established more than three hundred years ago as the headquarters for all of Baja and California.

The town center, with its flower covered pedestrian walkways, and the malecon (the waterfront walk) are lovely and are a reminder of what tourist dollars can do—in addition to providing local jobs.

The main old hotel on the city square, the promenade and government building.

But it is small time tourism compared to much of the rest of Pacific coast Mexico. There are no mega resorts here, no cruise ship terminal. The airport has roughly 3 flights a day. One golf course—although apparently there is a super fancy golf course resort now open about 20 miles south of town. There was a giant Holland American cruise ship offshore when we arrived and a few cruisers wandering around the town center, but we have no idea how they’d get 2000 people into town. The Loreto marina is really only suited for the tiny panga fishing boats. Even the fancy charter fishing boats are moored miles south in Puerto Escondido.

Five years ago when we were here we did see Steven Spielberg’s yacht anchored off shore and even got to see him and his entourage whisked off from the marina to the airport in a motorcade of white SUVs to a private jet. He had hosted the Obamas the week before. Our tiny, distant brush with celebrity.

I guess we can be thankful that we are staying in bit of a backwater. By shear bad luck we timed our stay in Loreto with the killing of El Mencho, the narco gang leader, by the Mexican federales in late February. The killing set off acts of violence from the drug gangs all around Mexico, particularly in Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta across the Sea of Cortez from us. Roads closed, airports shut down. Cars and buses set on fire. Shops trashed. People sheltering in place. But in Loreto, absolutely quiet. Nada. Something to be said for being off the beaten path.

So what is there to do and see around sleepy Loreto beyond strolling, reading, beach walking, and napping—certainly not bad options? Nature is very, very big here. And marine life is the star. The entire bay in front of the town is a giant national park—the Loreto Bay National Marine Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, the aquarium of the world. There are boating excursions into the park and if you’re lucky you can see dolphins, whale sharks, and the largest mammal on earth—the blue whale. And we were lucky to see the Humpback whales attempting to woo potential mates by tale slapping and breaching off shore. There are snorkeling expeditions to the nearby islands and even swimming with the sea lions for the brave.

We do like looking at birds and usually during our morning and sunset walks we easily identified six to twelve different species. The pelicans were a show unto themselves.

But even more impressive is the two hour drive across the peninsula to Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos and Magdalena Bay. Here every year from January to March, hundreds of grey whales migrate down from Alaska to calve. Small pangas (open motorized boats—the number and size is limited by strict environmental regulations), take you out into the bay to witness this natural wonder. The whales seem to get close enough that you could reach out and touch them. Of course, you’re not supposed to. Truly a must do if you’re in Loreto at that time of year.

Photo credit to our frequent travel companion Malcolm Lindquist

We’ve made that trip twice before and could not resist a third time this visit. So up before the sun, literally, and off across the Baja peninsula to the Pacific side. The first hour of the drive, winding up the side of the mountains as the sun rose was spectacular and we deeply regretted the lack of any safe space to pull over the take pictures.

Then another hour of straight roads through the barren cardón forests as you gradually go down to sea level again. Unfortunately when we arrived at the coast we saw the first clouds we had seen in two weeks — close to the ground clouds as in dense fog. So we had to wait a couple hours until the sun burned through the fog and it was safe to leave harbor. And as the two hour boat ride extended into three hours, the skies became blue again. Well worth the wait and the $40 per person charge.

Aside from hopping in a car or van to go whale watching, there are also several short drives from Loreto worth the time—one to the gorgeous St. Javier Mission in the mountains above the town

another up the coast past the stunning Bahia Concepcion to the old mission town of Mulege. It was in Mulege that local resistance to the American invaders kept Baja part of Mexico during the 1848 Mexican—American War. A hero city, Heroica Mulege.

Certainly more enough to do and see for a two week escape from the cold and rain of the Northwest US. And we’re enjoying every warm minute of it.

Shocking Copenhagen

Let’s make one thing clear! This is not a complaint or a whine or a criticism. Just a reality check.

Copenhagen is a stunningly beautiful city in a progressive country with architectural treasures and a great history. It reputed by one of those “scientific” surveys to be the happiest city in the world. A city of hygge.

But despite all the pluses, it was still a shock transitioning back through Copenhagen to the United States after two months in Valencia, Spain.

We had booked our flight to Valenica through SAS, Scandinavian Airlines, because they were restarting a direct flight for the first time since 2009 from Seattle to Copenhagen and offering some of the best prices to Europe we could find. We also jumped at the chance to spend a few nights in Copenhagen on the way back. We had been there several times in the 90’s on our way to and from Russia. It was time to revisit.

The first shock is weather. It shouldn’t have been, obviously. We knew better. Northern Europe is after all north. And we arrived on November 1st. We left sunny Valencia in the high 70’s to arrive in rainy Copenhagen in the high 40’s. And windy. And gray.

Shorts and tee shirts gave way to long pants, sweaters, and rain coats. Layers on top of layers. Window checks from our hotel. Were the people in the street below wearing raincoats, parkas, skull caps, scarves, and carrying umbrellas? We had been smart enough to pack warmer clothes, but still our bodies somehow felt abused.

The second is sticker shock. Most travelers know that the Scandinavian countries are expensive—really expensive—but coming from Spain and low cost Valencia in particular….oh… my….god! Two lattes and two small rolls with cheese in Copenhagen—$32. In Valencia that’s a dinner for two with two glasses of decent red wine. A 45 minute train ride round-trip for two to Helsingborg from Copenhagen—$123. A 2 hour round-trip train ride to Benicassim from Valencia—$30. For two. To Madrid on a high speed train—$60. A plain gin and tonic in our mediocre hotel bar—$22. A top of the line G&T in a fabulous Valencia bar—$8.

*An eight course Valencian lunch in a Michelin Bib Gourmand place with impeccable service and a ramen counter lunch in Copenhagen cost about the same*

Museums in Valencia are mostly free. The National Museum in Copenhagen $20. The Glyptoteket, a wonderful art museum, the same! So it goes. Of course, wages are higher in Denmark than in Spain. Denmark also has one of the best social services systems in the world—free child care, elder care, schooling, good pensions, and great health care. But as a traveler, not a local, the shock was real. We had to reset.

Then there was the different daily schedule in the same time zone. In Valencia, we got up at 9, sometimes, but not always, got out of apartment by 10, ate lunch at 2, dinner at 9:30 or later, and in bed at 1. Usually, we took an afternoon stroll around until the sun started setting around 6:30 the last week we were in Valencia—daylight savings time ended.

In Copenhagen, however, it was dark at 4:30. People started dinner as early as 5:30 and following that pattern, we could have been ready for bed at 9—about the time the restaurants in Valencia were opening. Different life cycles. A jolt to our recent biological clocks.

At first we thought there was a big difference in the street life. In Valencia, people live in the streets. They eat, play, and socialize in the restaurants and squares outside. The noise is sometimes deafening. Because of the small apartments, you have friends and family gatherings at restaurants. It was not unusual to see tables of 15 or 20 celebrating birthdays, anniversaries, or graduations partying late into the night —almost always outside. We usually went to bed at 1 am on weekends when the partying was liveliest, because that was when restaurants legally had to get their tables off the street and things finally quieted down.

Early evening two blocks from our Valencia apartment in October

In Copenhagen, dead silence around 8 pm our first night at our hotel near the city center. Almost nobody out and about. We thought at first maybe the zombie apocalypse had arrived. We slept with the windows wide open even though we’re on a fairly active street and the reception desk had warned us about street noise. However, we rarely saw a car driving down our street, just bicycles. Lots of bicycles! Of course, the late fall weather in Copenhagen precludes much outdoor restaurant seating except for a few chairs for desperate smokers. But then we began to see the life in the streets. Blankets were hung over chairs at outdoor tables. Without the rain, those seats probably would have been taken. We found Nyhavn, the tourist waterfront. There cafes, bars and restaurants line the quay. Even in November, people were huddled next heaters for lunch in puffy parkas trying pretend it was July. The locals say any sun brings people out. And in summer, we sure it’s bumped up another notch but still not the living in the street vibe of Valencia.

*Copenhagen outdoor culture in November*

So at first the transition was indeed a shock—the contrasts enormous. But once we adjusted a bit, more similarities emerged. Both cities have a bike culture. In Valencia bikes and motorized scooters were everywhere, sometimes zipping along in the bike lanes and sometimes not. Sometimes following traffic signals and sometimes not. In Copenhagen bikes are the primary mode of transportation. Commuters, students pedaling away.

Entire families head out on often with mom and the kids in the front “basket” and Dad pedaling from the rear seat. During rush hour the bike lanes are packed and riders follow the rules of the road, even using turn signals! Some bikes are specially built to move boxes and pallets. We even saw a couple wrestling a refrigerator onto their bike with a wooden passenger crate — heading to the recycle center?

Then there’s the food scene. Valencia is crammed with restaurants—we counted 25 in a short 3 block walk from our apartment. Every imaginable enthicity, not just Spanish. Every price range—from cheap kebab take-away joints to Michelin starred restaurants. We had four Michelin rated places within two blocks of our home in Ruzafa. Everyday it seemed there was a food festival. We enjoyed a rice festival with paella stalls, but missed a seafood “experience” in an old grand warehouse, an Octoberfest, a potatas bravas festival, and festival featuring the flavors of Latin America. And yes, Copenhagen has plenty of restaurants. Around our hotel we have Italian, Vietnamese, Japanese, Indian, and Danish. But not the density. Not the insane variety in price and quality. And we haven’t found any food festivals yet although we’re sure we could find a herring fest if we looked hard enough. When we walked maybe two miles from the city center we found a few blocks packed with small shops and restaurants. Still subdued compared to Valencia.

It’s a tale of two cities and we’re glad we don’t have to make a choice. Both are a traveler’s dream — flat, walkable, fascinating with deep histories, abundant culture and art, and great food. Vikings or Moors, Danish modern or Valenican art deco, Cervantes or Hans Christian Anderson, smørrebrød or paella. We enjoyed both.

“That’s so Valencia!”

Almost two months into our stay here in Valencia, we’ve come across a few quirks or idiosyncrasies of the city. Mostly small things but big surprises.

Beer! Despite being a huge wine producing region in a huge wine producing country, Valencians drink beer. Walk by any outdoor table on any afternoon or evening and you’ll see almost exclusively beer. In bottles, in glasses, in mugs. Yes, maybe a glass of wine or two, but beer is king.

Cooking in the streets! The city has hundreds of neighborhood social clubs (Falla clubs) that prepare all year for the March Fallas festival. They each have a social hall that opens onto the street. Apparently, anything is an excuse to party and close off the street. 1/2 year to the next Fallas. Party. Valencia Independence Day. Party. A local girl wins the Fallera beauty contest. Party. Paella is required. It has to be cooked the traditional way—on an open wood fire in the middle of the street. And snacks to nibble on? Chips, olives, pickles. And beer, of course. No fancy tapas here.

Grafitti doors! Lots of grafitti on the metal pull down garage and store front doors. Some are very artistic and beautiful—probably professionally done. Others not so much. But it’s on doors everywhere. And interestingly, very little graffiti anywhere else here in Ruzafa—although we have seen quite a bit in other neighborhoods (some called for provincial president’s resignation) and in the center of old town some anti-tourist grafitti.

Scooters, skate boards, motorized unicycles! They are a huge part of the transportation scene. And all ages use them—not just young people. The scooters travel quietly at warp speeds—they are a real menace for pedestrians. The city is flat, very car unfriendly, has special red bike lanes everywhere (which the scooters use), and the weather is good all year long. So it’s a great, inexpensive (if dangerous) solution to getting around. We followed well dressed woman as she carried her scooter into the big department store. We watched a middle aged guy come out of his big yacht at the marina and fly off on his scooter. Away he goes!

Dog washing laundromats! There are doggy laundromats for your dogs, your doggy blankets, and doggy paraphernalia. It’s a good business because everybody has a dog. One of our first nights here we ate dinner with five dogs. One breed, a kind of miniature labradoodle, is Valencia’s dog of choice. Cute little fellow seen everywhere.

Street names! They usually change after three or four blocks. Very few names seem to last the entire length of a street. We have friends who live on Literat Azorin which becomes Reina na Maria and finally Pere III el Gran. The street is 12 blocks long. This is the case everywhere in the city. No wonder cabbies look at you quizzically when you give them a street name. Better to use a landmark like a Mercado.

Merry Christmas! In the middle of October, the street decorations are starting to appear. It’s not the retail shops because they still have up Halloween decorations. Christmas starts early, and ends 12 days after Christmas with the arrival by boat of the Three Kings. That’s the big day! A present or two may be exchanged Christmas Day, but the real celebration comes on Three Kings day. Just imagine! The holiday season here spans nearly three months! American retailers—eat your hearts out.

Black Friday sales! But they are not necessarily on Friday. And they happen frequently. And there’s no Thanksgiving Day for the sale to follow. Apparently Valencia has stolen the term and uses it indiscriminately to advertise big sales

Small doors, big stores! Our two largest supermarkets, comparable to big American supermarkets, have two small doors—one on either side of a city block. A tiny sign over each entrance says Consum or Mercadona. Once you get in, the space is enormous and often snakes around in a warren of different halls and rooms. The stores literally take up a good portion of the interior of the city block. Usually there is underground parking as well. But good luck finding it.

We’ve gotten used the these quirks. And we suspect if we stayed here longer and were a bit less transient, we would find more. As one of our local friends said when we were turned away from a government building when it was supposedly open, “That’s so Spanish.” We would add, “That’s so Valencia.”

Restaurant-topia!

We are in a restaurant paradise. Ruzafa, Valencia. Can’t think of a place we’ve been that has a better variety and greater density of eating places. Nothing we’ve experienced compares to this place for sheer volume, quality and price. In an unremarkable stretch of three blocks near our apartment, we counted twenty-five restaurants and bars. And the variety is crazy. We’ve eaten Sardinian, Sicilian, generic Italian, Georgian (the country, not the state), Irish, Moroccan, French, Japanese, Asian fusion, Lebanese, Turkish. And, of course, Spanish—Valencian, Basque, Andalusian, Galician, Castilian.

Sardinian prawns with arugula and a ravioli-like dumpling with sage

We could live in this neighborhood for ten years and not exhaust all our restaurant choices. At one naive moment we thought we would count all the restaurants in the Ruzafa — an area of about 3 square miles. Foolish and impossible idea. We do have a friend here who maintains an annotated map of her top restaurants in the neighborhood, currently at 37. We need to start our own list.

So what’s the deal with all the restaurants?

What creates this incredible density of eating places?

We are trying to figure all this out. We have some thoughts.

Ruzafa is NOT tourist central. There are tourist traps and international big name chains in the old historic part town where all the major sights are — McDonalds, Burger King, Starbucks and HardRock. In tourist central, the signs outside are often in English. They hawk the Spanish tourist favorites—PAELLA, TAPAS, SANGRIA! But in Ruzafa, not so much. It’s not tourists that keep these restaurants hopping. These are small, locally owned places. The restaurants depend on return customers, not volume, and the price has to be right. We’ve sung the praises of the prices here—everything is dirt cheap by comparison to the US and Northern Europe. A good red wine last night at an outstanding Moroccan restaurant was 2.50€ a glass. Crazy! And the quality has to be really good with so many options to choose from.

Ruzafa is also diverse with lots of immigrants and expats. So many nationalities. So many different cuisines. Another lure to diners.

A bit of Italian influence with pesto on baby squid

But still, why so many restaurants in such a small neighborhood?

Is it that Ruzafa is reputed to be “hip and trendy”? Attractive to those looking for a lively, fun area to dine. Near enough to historic center for those adventurous tourists willing to take a hike. And also walking distance from neighborhoods of upscale apartments and neighborhoods of hundreds, maybe thousands, of mid-century high rise apartments. That helps fill restaurant seats.

It’s also a real neighborhood where locals stay close to home to hang with their families and friends. In Ruzafa itself, lots of street level space for restaurants and shops, and customers living in the apartments above.

Ruzafa was a run down neighborhood a few decades ago. In a pattern many cities have seen, in moved the artists looking for cheap space. The gay community found a home here, too. Pretty soon the bohemian vibe brought in small bars and restaurants. And “suddenly” it’s hip and trendy corner of Valencia. We’ve been told rents here for commercial properties remain relatively low. So the take-away kebab places stand next to Michelin star restaurants. Both benefitting from low rent. It’s definitely a mixed up jumble of high end, low brow and everything in between.

A pretty modest Peruvian restaurant — chicken and rice, fried fish with beans, a ceviche salad and Peruvian corn nuts

Like many European cities, particularly in the south, Valencia has an outdoor culture. People live in the streets. And that is certainly apparent in Ruzafa. The street corners are often cut-outs like in the L’Eixample in Barcelona, creating more space for outside dining.

Many of the restaurants have only five or six tables inside and another five or six outside. Families or friends shove the tables together and hang out for hours, drinking beer, wine and spritzers — often with a play area for the kids in sight of the tables.

With only a few tables, one seating a night, you’d think these restaurants couldn’t possibly survive. And yet they seem to flourish. We thought when we first arrived and saw all the restaurants we could just wander out at night and grab a table. Not so. You need reservations almost anywhere other than the most casual places on a weekend night, and, by the way, the weekend here seems to include Thursdays and Sundays.

And then there is the quality of the food. Another draw. The restaurants rely on local ingredients. A short bus ride outside the urban center takes you past small truck farms that nudge up against the city high rises. The government and to some extent the EU subsidize the local farmers keeping quality high and prices low.

An Asian fusion meal of noodles and dumplings

Across from our apartment in the Mercado, there are 29 butcher and charcuterie shops. Twenty-nine! 19 fish stalls! Everything is fresh. We asked at one stall for oranges. Come back in 10 days or two weeks and the local oranges will be in, the lady said. Maybe that’s why most restaurants change their menus with the seasons. And, in some cases, like our local osteria, the menu changes every day depending on what the chef finds that day.

Does good seasonal food keep folks coming back? Is that enough to keep all these places going?

We don’t really know. We’re here for two months, with several weeks to go. So we still have time to try to answer the question, ask our expat friends for more information and formulate more theories. In the meantime, we’ll enjoy another meal out.